As in wine. Hot. Not hottttttt.
High alcohol, unbalanced wines that tend to burn with "heat" on the finish are called hot. Usually acceptable in Port-style wines.
Mostly I chose this so I'd have an excuse to link to Bottlenotes, a kind of fun and informative and easy web site dedicated to, obviously, wine. While the Little Black Dress Club is a little twee for me, I'm too much of a marketer not to appreciate the effort.
Plus, this use of the word makes for some really nice opportunities for ironic Paris imitations.